J Cosmet DermLaboratory research
The Skin-Lightening Efficacy and Mechanisms of Botanical Extracts: A Comprehensive Review
Yang S, Ding M, Ye C, Shen J, Zhang L, Yang A, Gu L
Journal of Cosmetic DermatologyIn the feed 28 Sep 2026, published online 28 Sep 2026, issue 2026 Oct
Topics: Pigmentary disorders
Abstract
BACKGROUNDSkin pigmentation is regulated by a complex network involving melanogenesis, melanosome transfer, oxidative stress, environmental stimuli, and epidermal turnover. Botanical extracts and phytochemicals have attracted increasing interest as potential skin-lightening agents. This review evaluates their efficacy, mechanisms, and safety.
METHODSA comprehensive literature review was conducted to synthesize evidence on the skin-lightening effects and mechanisms of botanical extracts and their bioactive constituents. Evidence was organized into six major pathways: attenuation of ultraviolet and environmental damage; regulation of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) pathway; tyrosinase (TYR) inhibition; inhibition of melanosome transfer; modulation of redox processes involved in melanin formation; and regulation of epidermal renewal.
RESULTSThe reviewed literature indicates that botanical extracts and phytochemicals can regulate pigmentation through multiple complementary mechanisms. Polyphenols, flavonoids, terpenoids, alkaloids, and other plant-derived constituents have been reported to influence the MITF/TYR/TRP axis, melanosome transport, oxidative stress, and pigment metabolism. These findings suggest that botanical skin-lightening activity extends beyond direct TYR inhibition and may involve coordinated regulation of pigment homeostasis. However, evidence strength varies among botanical materials, and much of the available evidence is derived from in vitro, cellular, or animal models. Safety concerns, including melanocytotoxicity and potential leukoderma, also require careful consideration.
CONCLUSIONBotanical extracts show promise as multifunctional skin-lightening agents. Future research should emphasize standardized characterization, mechanism-based evaluation, comprehensive safety assessment, and validation in human skin and clinical settings.
Abstract from Crossref
DOI 10.1111/jocd.71213 · Not in PubMed: details from Crossref